Maybe it’s because I’ve been through Southwest states before, the view from the right side of the bus or maybe it’s the need for instant gratification, but for some reason, the start of this bus ride from Albuquerque to Philmont does little to confirm we’re headed for a great adventure. But the good thing is it gives me a chance to start my journal.
Interstate 25 is mostly straight with low mountains, it looks a lot like I-5 heading south to LA (oh no, not that!) I’m sure the energy will kick in when I can see the Rockies. Maybe I’m a little tentative wondering if my bike fall 3 days ago will haunt me,if I have too much weight in my pack or if I’ve accidentally forgotten something- and since most of us only got around 3 hours of sleep, that’s possible. Even though I only have 3 backpacking trips tallied, I think being in my boots and slinging my pack on my back changes the way I ‘walk’ through my day- I’m more aware, looking for little ‘gifts’: sights like views, flora and fauna, sounds like solitude, the wind or laughter from this group of 21 I’m getting to know and best of all, the sense of accomplishment of skills learned and miles traversed.
Hannah Winters and Thomas are sitting across from me, and they’re trying to figure out what candy bar everyone reminds them of. It sounds like fun, and with my lack of sleep, my minds in the right state to join in……
Well, we turned off onto another highway, and suddenly we approaching Cimarron. Now we see a sign for Philmont Boy Scout Ranch, and in almost a blink we’re here. With the evening sun behind them, it’s hard to make out the features of the mountains, so I guess on ‘Day 0’ many of us sleep next to them as strangers. As the bus passes through the arch with so many boots hanging off it, I guess that’s as much confirmation as we get until tomorrow.
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7-9-04 Base Camp “Hurry-Up and Wait”
Not too much activity in a long day, but it’s all necessary. Our Ranger,Tim is a college student from Lubbock, Texas. I think we take him aback with our colorful, twisted California ways. How I wish I had a video of the moment in ‘Tent City’ when we were talking about how we like Tim and Lucas gave him a spontaneous hug! The look on Tim’s face was priceless!
During all the waiting, the crew passed time going to the snack bar, Tooth of Time Traders and playing “Mao”. Tim taught them a new card game that is popular this year at Philmont –“Uker”.
Steven went through logistics finalizing our trek, we all made it through the medical re-check, and Tim led us through pack inspection. A few surprises-only need 2 compasses for the whole group, and Tim suggested we all share an orange shovel. Not sure how I feel about that.
While waiting for Tim to call us into the mess hall, the crew decided we would all shout “We love you Uncle Tim!” We could tell Tim loved it, but he also looked sheepish. He told us the other rangers were jealous, and that crews usually didn’t show their appreciation. The crew just said ‘Well, welcome to our Crew”.
We had an opening campfire; “The Philmont Story”. It was a set of monologues to chronicle New Mexico history. It was done well, felt like it served as a ‘You are here’ marker for both geography and time. As part of the campfire the Trek Leaders were called up and presented with a flag. I could tell it was a humbling moment for many of the Leaders, including Steven.
After campfire, we had a J1 meeting by the snack bar. Tim taught us ‘Thorns and Roses’, where each person in turn lists any ‘Thorns’ (bad things in the day) ‘Roses’ (good things in the day) and a ‘Bud’ (wish for tomorrow). All and all, with the campfire and Crew meeting, I think it settled us all in- we begin tomorrow.
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7-10-04 To Rayado River Camp
We’re off! Were loaded down with 4 days of food, and everyone’s pack is jammed. I’m starting out at 47 lbs! I’m a little nervous as I hear how much other people’s packs weigh. I do have 4 liters of water- most of the ‘Yoots’ only have 1-2 liters, so we will see. In J2, Alex’s pack weighs 49 lbs, and Tony Prado’s weighs 59 lbs!
On the bus ride Tim served as tour guide. He points out Urraca Mesa and tells us how the Anasasi and Navaho people thought it was a strong place with a portal to another world. This portal is located in the ‘eye’ on the mesa, and Tim says no one sleeps up on the mesa, or ventures there at night.
After a short hike we stop at Zastrow Camp, where the crew does an orienteering course. While they are gone, us ‘Dults’ (advisors) get to rest on the porch- they even have hammocks. We learn that one of the staff here is from Finland.
We continue on to Rayado River Camp, where we set up camp before lunch. This campsite is far enough from the trail that it is quiet. We are close to the river, so we dip our feet in and splash water on our faces even though we only hiked 1.5 miles.
We are scheduled for root beer, dinner and program at Abreu, the next camp up the trail. On the way, we saw our first “Pilot to Bombardier”, right on the trail. At the Abreu Cantina (a small adobe building) a Monopoly game is in progress. We all get root beer and many of the crew start up a card game. Murphy buys a root beer float- which is cold root beer with dehydrated ice cream in it. There are goats and chickens in the yard. Before dinner, some of the crew starts playing with the chickens. They go right to Hannah Koppa, but others have to chase them. One of the staff shows how you can put a chicken asleep by holding it upside down-weird.
The Mexican Dinner was great, but I think everyone ate too much and had too much root beer. At least it gave us a chance to visit the ‘privy’ –a 1912 white outhouse with a crescent moon and star cutout in the door. There was a rope lock to use on the inside, but also a wood latch on the outside to keep critters out at night. When Lucas went in, the wood latch fell, locking him in until someone passed by.
The program here was also a tour of the 1912 farmhouse, with a punched tin ceiling, wood fire stove, oil lamps and porch swings outside. Everyone who was willing got a chance to milk the goats or help with the chickens and burros. The crew played with the chickens and played cards. One of the staff taught them other card game- ‘Idiot’. As we were getting ready to leave, we got Tim out from the Cantina and his Monopoly game by singing “Tim, Tim you’re so fine, you’re so fine you blow our mind, Hey Tim!” Maybe our Crew’s “bud” is to make Tim sheepish everyday (but he loves it!)
When we got back to our camp, we did “Thorns and Roses’. This is the second time we’ve done them, and both times Hannah K hasn’t had any thorns, but lots of roses- what a great outlook! Tim told ghost stories about Urraca, where we’re headed tomorrow. It was about 9pm, and there was lightning in the northeast. He told us a story about a scout who had gotten lost back in the late ‘30s. Now, Trek crews run into his ghost, still looking for his troop. There were several other stories and for some reason, it seems like some of the crew is uneasy.
There is another ranger that we saw here at Rayado River before we left this evening. She barged into our camp and then made a comment about it being right on the trail. She has a raspy voice and seems like she has a strong personality. Both here and when we saw her at Abreu, she was leading her Crew around. Her Crew seems young, maybe she’s getting exasperated. In the middle of ghost stories, she charges into our camp. Mr. C stopped her by suggesting she ask permission to enter camp? She asks if we will be settling down soon, as her Crew will be getting up at 4am. Early the next morning, their bearbags are still hanging up at 6am (they didn’t leave until 7:30am).
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7-11-04 To Urraca Mesa
Today we climbed Urraca Mesa. On the way up, the crew renamed themselves for Snow White (Hannah W) and the 7 Dwarfs: Happy (Rich), Sneezy (Steven) Bashful (Mark) Grumpy (Richie) Sleepy (Lucas) Doc (Murphy) and Dopey (Hannah K). Mr. C is Papa Bear, Mrs. G is Mama Bear, I am Baby Bear and Tim is Goldilocks! We saw bear scat on the trail and a wildflower Tim identifed as Red Bearded Tongue and some others he couldn’t identify.
The hike was a challenge, as all of a sudden it got steep. The view was great; there was so much meadowland below. As we got close to the top, the jagged rocks did look intriguing. The last uphill was challenging being it was the first real hike of the trip. We pressed on so we could finish hiking before lunch. And did lunch tasted good up on the mesa after that climb with heavy packs!
The descent down to Urraca Camp was fun; the crew was singing and laughing. After we checked in and set up our camp, the Crew did a Challenge course. It was hysterical! One game was the Lava Pit. The Crew had to take turns swinging across the ‘lava pit’ on a rope hung in a tree. On the other side of the pit were 3 plywood disks which were the only places they could stand. The catch was only 2 feet (and not from the same person) could come in contact with each disk. Hannah W was swinging across, saying “Catch me, Catch me!” The people on the other side missed her, as she swung back she changed to “push me back, PUSH ME BACK!!” in her Hannah W yelling voice. The 3 of us ‘Dults’ and Tim were all laughing so hard.
Another game was like musical chairs where there is one less spot than the amount of people. The trick was the odd person stood in the middle and stated a condition that applied to some people, and for all it applied to, they had to change places (i.e. ‘if you have graduated from High School this year….” Richie found himself in the middle, but quickly got out as a mad scramble broke out when his condition applied to “all people who have a Nalgene bottle!” I could tell that our Crew’s comments and antics had the staff person (Brianna) enjoying the crew as well. (I’m beginning to see that this Crew has that effect on people!)
Dinner was Spaghetti, and we proved to Tim that ‘our’ way of cooking (boiling water poured into the dehydrated meal bag) works-so we got approval to keep cooking in this manner. Hooray, we shouldn’t have to mess with the ‘Yum-Yum’ bag!
After dinner, the program started out with “Philmont Idol”. Each crew had to come up with a song, and we were told that originality would be a factor-no Council songs! Steve and Richie came up with the words, and Steve and Hannah W did a duet to the tune of “Eye of the Tiger” from the movie Rocky (and the current Starbucks commercial). It was all a song about our Ranger Tim:
Tim…Tim,Tim,Tim
Tim, Tim……Tim...
He’s the man who never lets us down
Got the shirt to boss us around
Even though we scare him, he accepts us…..
The man, who once was a stranger
Is now a very cool ranger…….We love you Goldilocks!
Well, even with the 3 very tough judges the crew won Philmont Idol…and Steve received a silver crown with purple and pink flowers! The campfire program at Urraca Camp was songs accompanied by guitar, mandolin and recorder, and as the winner, Steve got up and played the washboard and spoon. After a few songs, the staff told stories. (2 of which were: Rico Suave & “Paroparjaro Pass”). They finished the evening with ghost stories about Urraca Mesa, one was about a mysterious blue light. As the program ended, I have to admit we did see a blue light up on the mesa.
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7-12-04 To Miner’s Park
After breakfast, we headed up again to the top of Urraca Mesa and it was brutal! Maybe it was because I still have my bruised toes (on which I stepped wrong and injured again!) and 40-odd lbs in my pack, but I my toes were screaming and I was frustrated to the point of tears.
Once at the top, we dropped our packs and walked around looking for the “Eye” of the mesa, the portal that the Indians believed led to another world. We looked for a while, took a picture where we thought it could be and they walked to the edge of the mesa and checked out the vistas. On our way back, we did find it- the low spot that was distinctive. While I was up there, I could not see any man-made evidence for the blue night we had seen the night before, so I had to admit as much to the Crew.
The hike was quiet as we parted ways with Tim when the trail forked either towards Lover’s Leap or on to Miner’s Park. We have found a good system to let Mrs. G hike ahead with one person on our second day on the trail, and the Crew rotates this honor. By the time we got to Miner’s Park, some of us were spent- and the program is rock climbing! Only Steve, Rich, Richie, Lucas and
Mr. C took advantage of the rock climbing, the rest of us set up camp in slow motion. They had showers so some of us washed clothes and rinsed off- it perked us up. There is a statistic that on the 3rd day on the trail, people hit a wall-either physically or mentally. It helped the Crew to know that after completing this 3rd day hike.
Those who climbed came back with stories- it seems the rock climbing staff had a policy that you compliment the belayers. Steve took his belayer by surprise by saying he was “climbing to Heaven, and she looked like an angel” -smooth! It was a trust issue for Rich- his belayer is from Mississippi, and he teased her by asking “Where’s Mississippi? (Hang on, Rich!)
Dinner was a mess; dehydrated food in packages that were too small to re-hydrate in. There were hot tempers and low patience that day, not too bad- but Murphy was one of the cooks and needed a refresher lesson in stoves. Supposedly, Miner’s Park has seen the most bears so we were diligent in clean-up. But we neither saw nor heard evidence of bears- just 2 mule deer in the meadow.
At Thorns and Roses, when it gets to people talking about their “bud” for tomorrow, the crew starts in with the “Bud-wise-er” chant. Tonight Mark beat them at their own game, saying his ‘Bud’ was that we would get ‘Wiser’ in hiking. We finally ate the pound cake and frosting that is a customary gift from each ranger.
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7-13-04 To Black Mountain
After a breakfast (that included Lucky Charms), we’re off to Black Mountain- and what a change of scenery! We’re following a stream, and will end up crossing it around 48 times by the time we reach Black Mountain. As we started out, we passed through as great camp- North Fork Urraca Camp. It would have been worth walking a little farther yesterday to camp here by the stream. On the hike we saw beaver dams, and the resulting gnawed tree stumps. We also saw aspen trees (for the first time), wild roses, orange lilies, fennel and many more flowers.
When we started we had a great view of Grizzly Tooth, in fact we had great views all day- the mountains, aspen trees and pines, the stream with fish in each deep spot. There is a slight breeze, and it’s great to hear the impact on the aspen leaves- they remind me of wind chimes.
Along the way, Steve and Rich were practicing their “Who’s on First” bit, and then some of the crew did D&D. Between the antics and the scenery, the 5 miles went by fast. Walking through the trees and coming out to a sudden clearing we saw the log cabins of Black Mountain Camp by 11:30am. We were greeted by ‘Corndog’ who calls everyone ‘Bob’. He’s pretty funny and makes jibes at the crew. Steve tells Corndog his “Abagooday’ joke to settle the score. Corndog is great in character, he tells us that here at Black Mountain it is 1866. We make arrangements to go black power shooting after lunch then go to set up camp. Corndog told us there is a sow bear and her cub in the area, so we make a tight tent cluster at our great campsite by the stream.
The Program staff person for black powder shooting and smithing is Blake. He takes great interest in each of the crew, asking them where they go to school, what they are studying and what hobbies they have. Murph is given the task to hold all the smithing tools as Blake talks about them. He had tools in the crooks of his arms, under his chin, balancing on his head, neck, everywhere- ‘my son, the workbench!’ Blake gave us a great new comeback line when someone says something that you either don’t believe or are not impressed by: “If that’s what you have to tell yourself to sleep through the night….”
When Mike and Hannah miss in blacksmithing and strike ‘Betty’ (the anvil) they both have to give Betty a kiss. Once again, the Crew made the program staff crack up with their responses. Steve using ‘Abagooday!’ as his Black Powder shooting yell, Hannah W yells ‘Pickle’! After watching everyone load and fire the black powder rifle, I decide to try it also and find there is not a big kick and it is pretty accurate, I miss Murph’s bandana but hit the soda bottle next to it twice.
Dinner was Black Beans and Rice and was pretty good. In the late afternoon we keep hearing burros from 2 places in the camp. A deer also walked through the camp during dinner. We find that there are two burro pens at opposite ends. The Staff uses the burros to pack in supplies from the 4WD road above the camp. After dinner we walk down for “Advisors Coffee”. At all staffed camps, this is a nightly occurrence. At tonight’s coffee, we learn that the bottom of the cabin was built in 1865. It originally had a dirt floor, but was renovated in the 1990s, the walls were extended higher and a wood floor added. Each night we go to bed earlier and earlier. Tonight, people start heading for their tents starting at 7:30pm.
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7-14-04 To Comanche Camp
It was cold when we woke up today, but at least we feel better about the warm clothing we’ve been carrying from Day 1. We had pop tarts for breakfast and the entertainment was watching Rich attempt to inhale them. Just out of Black Mountain Mr. C pointed out bear scratchings on some of the trees. We’re also seeing more new flowers and there have been wild strawberry plants.
The hike had a great surprise, we came out on a 4WD road toward Beaubien, and suddenly there was a meadow where cattle were grazing. With the mountains in the background, it reminded me of livestock grazing in the pastureland of the Bavarian Alps. A little farther we reached Philips Junction to re-supply. They had an outpost, mail drop, and another surprise: fresh apples and oranges, something we usually take for granted but not today. They also have dill pickles- a moving experience for Rich.
After Phillips Junction it was hot, as there were not many trees on the trail. We stopped for lunch, then the Crew hiked a half mile to Crooked Creek for the 1866 Homesteading Program, after we ‘dults’ talked them into not passing it up. (They wanted to skip Program in favor of playing cards.) We saw the 2nd Philmont Staff person that didn’t seem to fit. ‘Stoner Steve’ is laid back almost to the point of being catatonic. He suggests we make candles, sets down a can of melted paraffin and pretty much walks away. He had told us to make them as wide as a quarter, which takes a long time. A little while later, another Staff person comes up and tells us we should only make them as wide as a penny (hey, where’s our change?!) Making those candles was boring, at least Rich got a finger paraffin dip out of it.
The tour of the cabin was led by ‘Crazy Tim’; he was slightly irreverent and kept farting to clear a corner. He was not the first to tease the Crew about being from San Francisco, CA (I guess our state does have a rep). He also did a take-off on the old Sesame Street “this program brought to you by the letters……” and he used 2 candles shaped like a ‘p’ & ‘q’ and turned it into an off-color joke by flipping them around to look like the numbers 6 & 9 (ahem). Crazy Tim enjoyed teasing everyone, especially our crew, as we had the only female crew members there. And the Crew of course just fired right back, and then some. Crooked Creek also had what has to be the world’s ugliest chicken.
Before we knew it, 3 hours had passed and we still had an hour’s hike to Comanche Camp. As we got closer, it was dusty, had mosquitoes (for the first time) and a Pilot to Bombardier right in camp, which guys from other camps kept coming up to use- oh please, let it be dark soon!
While we were eating our dinner of Chicken and Rice (thank goodness for hot sauce!) an elk walked right through camp. Everyone was in their tents by 9pm to escape the mosquitoes.
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7-15-04 To Mt Phillips and Comanche Creek Camp
This morning at ‘Thorns and Roses’ Steve said one of his roses was that I spoiled Crazy Tim’s joke at Crooked Creek. (The old: Johnny told his teacher his dog was hit by a car on his butt, the teacher tells Johnny, “no, it’s rectum” Johnny says “wrecked him? No it killed him!”) Mike also said Crooked Creek was a ‘rose’, and no one said it was a thorn- so Hooray! We encouraged them to do program and no one is giving us the ‘hairy eyeball’ after.
At Clear Creek we threw tomahawks. I had never done it before, and thanks to a fellow Lefty’s coaching (Steve) I landed it on the first try! (I hate looking like a dork) We use an empty campsite to cook our supper for lunch, as we will be at a dry camp tonight. We will be climbing Mt Phillips packing all the water we will need for the remainder of today and to start out tomorrow. On the J1 map, someone has written “No, Mommy, noooooo!” and it sums it up- it feels like we are facing a big test. It started raining while lunch was cooking, so we scrambled for pack covers and rain gear.
We filled all the personals, droms, Cantenes and 2 liter bottles with water. Mr. C has 11 liters of water, Rich starts the afternoon’s hike with 15 liters (30+ lbs) and I hear Zach also has 15 liters!
I can’t even imagine it……
We all head for Mt Phillips, Troop and Crew together. On the way, I can hear the Ghigliottis doing “One Fat Hen and a Couple of Ducks” below me. Of course Lucas was first, with Tony and Anton soon following him. I was about the 7th person up, my goal was to keep pressing on, after hearing that a slow, consistent pace will take you farther. Even though we had been strung out down the trail, everyone reached the ‘false peak’ within about 30 minutes of each other –all 22 of us.
Then it was off to the real peak, which came quickly but with perseverance. There was another crew resting and airing out their feet right before the summit. They were applauding everyone as they reached the summit, since it was level and I felt rested, I skipped across the level part of the trail to earn their applause. When I reached the flag pole that was the summit, I asked if people kissed it, and several of the assembled folks told me ‘go ahead’. But when I touched the almost horizontal pole, the low end slipped out from the pile of rocks and it fell over, almost hitting Mitchell – ‘missed him by that much!’ So much for not looking like a dork! Thank goodness no one was hurt, and we all stepped in to raise it back vertical. The views were partly obscured by an approaching T-storm, so we could only briefly celebrate and take a summit picture.
On the way down, Hannah W twisted her ankle- Steven, Rich, Lucas, Thomas and Richie stepped up to deload her pack. I’ve been impressed on this hike up; Steven, Lucas and Ryan have been asking us women if our packs are too heavy.
We are hurrying across high bald spots, as it feels we are being chased by the T-storm, all the way to Comanche Peak Camp. We are reminded that the clouds are faster, as we are ‘tagged’ with hail about 7 minutes from camp.
Everyone worked together to pitch tents and the rainfly. We dined on canned ham & crackers, Oreos and Fruit by the Foot. The entertainment was provided by the Walrus rainfly, as we watched the rain accumulate into puddles at the low spots, sagging lower until they spilled off, sometimes on the Crew.
Even though the rain stopped by 6pm, we were chilled and most everyone went into their tents to warm up. We called out and talked to each other from tent to tent. Mr. C, Mark, Richie, Zach and Potter decided to venture back up to Phillips to see the sunset, but the rest of the Crew just spent the evening laughing, talking and playing cards.
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7-16-04 To Sawmill Camp
Several of us are feeling the altitude (elev. 11,200 ft). Steven and Mrs. G didn’t sleep well, and everyone seems ready to get down off Comanche Peak. Hannah K is ‘Nav’ and I am ‘Point’. When we are orienting the folded map, we thought we saw the trail crossed the symbol for a bridge. Starting out from Comanche Peak camp, the actual trail was hard to discern due to large rocks. When Hannah K and I looked at the map again, Rich came up to help us out. We pointed out the ‘bridge’ and Rich said “that’s the ‘I’ in ‘CIMARRON’ (printed on the map)!! Note to self, open the map larger next time to discern text from symbols…
It was a downhill day, and at about 1.5 miles into the hike, we reached a “Pilot to Bombardier” at a 3 pronged trail fork in Thunder Ridge camp. The El Paso TX troop that had taken the Crooked Creek tour with us was hiking on the same trail right behind us and seemed to be headed to Sawmill Camp as well. Let’s just saw that our Crew had a different sense of humor than their Troop. We were glad to see they chose the 4WD road, as we gravitate toward the shade, sights and safety of Pack trails. (We have seen too many beige Philmont Suburbans come racing along those 4WD roads.)
Baldy Mtn. flirted with us in the distance. We made it to Sawmill Camp by 11:30am and it was sunny, so we were able to take our time and set up camp. After lunch we were able to take warm showers and wash our clothes. This camp uses a boiler to heat the water,but thank goodness for ‘Scouts’ and their affinity for fire, there was no shortage of warm water. All agreed it felt good to wash the trail dust off.
In the afternoon the crew went to make their bullets and then went 30.06 shooting. As they were leaving a T-storm slipped over the mountains. Maybe we were too zealous to wash so many clothes with little place to let them dry. It was a pretty significant T-Storm, but it finally broke up @ 6:30pm.
Mr. G came over and the crew finalized the rest of the trek. It seems J2 has a goal to be on the trail before J1, but J1 is all about fun and enjoying this trek. I guess getting into camp before lunch leads to hijinx for this crew…..when they heard of J2’s goal, they had to talk to J2 about ‘getting up early’ tomorrow..just to hear Mr. G groan about the impact (‘No, now they’ll get up at 4am!!!) Rich also came up with a game after T-storms: Kick a tree (wet with rain) and give the people standing under it a shower.
The Crew volunteered to clean the 30.06 guns, for which they got Hostess doughnuts and got to listen to the radio. All I know was it was sure quiet in that shack. Our treat at ‘Advisor’s Coffee was Blueberry Cobbler, served with the most incredible view of an eastern valley. They told us to come back at 5:20am for a great sunrise, and all the crew said they wanted to try.

Before we went to our tents, Mr. C led a Crew Reflection and the crew decided they wanted to spend more time with J2. The whole crew impressed me with their contributions to the conversation. This is a group of observant, honest and thoughful young people, and like a cord of many strands, and their combined strength is impressive. All while we were talking, there was an active T-storm on the NE side of the mountains-no thunder, but we could see the flashes of lightning.
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7-17-04 To Hunting Lodge Camp
At 5:15am “The Hannahs”, Mr. C and I did get up and hike back to the staff cabin. But due to the clouds, the sunrise was less than spectacular. J1 & J2 started out together this morning, and we had another awesome hike, following a stream. We started descending through the aspen trees, and it was cool starting out being as high as their leaves. (I’m so used to being down below them, gazing up the white trunks).
Again, there were new wildflowers. At times the vegetation was waist-high, while the trail followed the canyon, and the stream offered small waterfalls cascading over rocks, with views of the peaks above us.
About a mile before Cimarroncito, Steven, Rich, Murph, Richie and Mr. C. unloaded their packs for the .5 mile hike to Ute Gulch commissary. Along with Tony, Anton, Mitchell, Ryan, Mr. Mullane and Mr. Mukensnable, they headed down to get our last supply of meals. The rest of us passed the time hanging up our still wet clothes, resting and playing cards. Alex tended to his blisters, which were about the size of grapes!
When the re-supply group got back, we had lunch, and for the last time, we added more food (4 meals for 2) to our packs. It’s sad, because this means we only have 3 nights left, so now I feel a little bummed, that our packs will be continuously lighter, bringing us closer to the end of our trek.
Some of us reminisced about what food we are beginning to miss. Some of the crew has been looking forward to the comforts (and some of the modern technology ‘comforts’) of home from Day One! But I have been enjoying every day on the trail, and as with most vacations, I just want it to go on forever.
The hike through Cimmaroncito and into Hunting Lodge was beautiful. The trail split a meadow of wildflowers walled against the wonderful mountains. Before I know it, we are at Hunting Lodge.
The Lodge has been kept in the era of the late 1930’s. I can imagine that by those standards, it was beyond basic. The furniture has rough pine limbs for chair and table legs, and by chance I am sitting in a chair that Waite Phillips has been photographed in. The Staff person (Heidi) tells us that one of Waite Phillip’s stipulations was that his family could use the Hunting Lodge whenever they wanted, and Mr. Phillip’s son “Chope” will be visiting next week. At times like these, I am in awe that all this land belonged to one person. Heidi also told us they have sighted 5 bears in the area, and that flooding is expected in Northern New Mexico. We are camped by a stream and to the north there is a range crowned with tan rocky cliffs (Cathedral Rocks?). There’s a T-storm, and although we get a light sprinkle, the thunder sounds far off.
As soon as we set up camp, the T-storm moves in, with deliberate rain. The J2 crew found a mushroom as big as a dinner plate.We also discover the ‘Red Roof Inn’ has toilet seats and really doors here. Mrs. G gets picked up by a Philmont vehicle; she will spend the night at Health Lodge to knock out an infection. Steve tricked Hannah K that there was a ‘minibear’ (Chipmunk or ‘little Hannah) in her tent. He told here it was really there….holding a sign that said ‘gullible!’ We dine under the Walrus on Hawaiian Chicken with one eye on the rainfly to unload the accumulated rainwater ever few minutes.
For evening program, Hunting Lodge staff-Heidi, Chris and Gavin- are awesome. They pulled up Advisor’s Coffee to 6:30pm and program to 7pm so we could get out of the weather. Chris and Gavin are from Texas. They were supposed to work the summer at a Council Camp, but at that the last minute it fell through. Someone put them in contact with Philmont, and within a week, they were here.
It was so warm with the fire roaring in the fireplace of the Lodge. We had homemade biscuits while Heidi, Chris and Gavin told us stories about Philmont. After the program, we crossed the rain-swollen stream and J1 & J2 did “Thorns and Roses’ together. We are introduced to “Potter Time” as Michael C has his only unique way to track how much time remains on the Trek. We say 3 days, but in Potter Time there is one day left? As we finished, there were great flashes of lightning. I would doze off to sleep, only to hear those still awake say “Whoa!” after a great flash. I would hear great applauds of thunder, making me want to keep my eyes open for the next display. We would find out the next morning that the Hannahs’ tent was less than water tight.
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7-18-04 To Clark’s Fork & Upper Clark’s Fork Camp
Next morning we had breakfast on the trail so the Crew could start their “Cons’ (Conservation) project by 8:00am. Thank goodness the sun was shining, as Hannah K’s sleeping bag is saturated. We drape it over a tent and remove most of the tent rainflys so everything can dry. It was a great hike half way up to Cypher’s Mine Camp. We followed a creek, with lots of boulders. Walking to our project we sight a mother grouse and her chicks. Hannah K found the largest ladybug I have ever seen. The Crew’s job is to cut down a pine tree. The rub is that only 18 year olds can handle an axe, the rest of the crew resorts to bow saws. Rich, Lucas and Mark make the first cuts, with the rest of the crew making the safety cut on the opposite side. Mr. C joins in to deepen the cut, then after more bow saw work, the Crew gives a final push and the tree comes down. Luckily, Alex catches it on video.
After lunch we stop to thank Heidi, Chris and Gavin for their hospitality and start out for Clark’s Fork. We can hear the approaching T-storm so we put on pack covers as we start the 2 mile hike. Before long the rain began, just in time for the steep uphill. With the storm there was little time to enjoy the vistas; Mr. C has everyone walk 10-20 feet apart because of the possibility of lightning strikes.
We reached Clark’s Fork to confirm the Chuckwagon Dinner and Mrs.G is waiting there. The rain stops long enough for us to continue on to Upper Clark’s Fork Camp. As we start to set up camp the rain begins again. As we set up the Walrus, a cloudburst begins to point out we have set up the Walrus and backpacks in a low spot. We scramble to move the packs and rainfly to higher ground. Thank goodness we were there to see the outcome and move the walrus before we headed back down to Clark’s Fork for the Chuckwagon dinner. On the way back to Clark’s Fork we see a Philmont Bear Researcher with a New Mexico Game & Fish warden, holding a rifle. They say a bear has been sighted close to campsites.
It poured during dinner, so 240 people were crammed under the aluminum roof shelter- Standing Room Only. But dinner tasted good: Beef Stew, Dutch oven biscuits and warm peaches. After dinner, the program was music (guitar, electric guitar and drums). The Crew said it was the best music they have heard. The Troop and Crew did their “Stab-Die” skit with people doing run-ons.
Lucas ran-on with a bit from Anger Management and Potter ran-on, grabbed a hiking staff and said “Let’s play Quidditch!” and later “I’ve got the Golden Snitch! Unfortunately, all the advisors missed the great performance but had a great night’s sleep.

7-19-04 To Tooth Ridge Camp
J2 wanted us over for morning coffee, but it took forever and was cold in the early morning shade. Six of the crew went out on horseback; they got a great riding lesson and saw a bear. Lucas, Rich and Murphy stayed behind and had a (packaged) food fight. I hiked back to Clark’s Fork for hot shower. I also stopped the blacksmith and got my boots branded. At camp, there were white butterflies that were attracted to Hannah W’s hair. They were friendly enough that Hannah, Rich and Mr. C could get them to light on their fingers. So, Upper’s Clark Fork has been renamed- Poetically as “Butterfly Canyon Camp” but also as “Pissin' Rock Camp” thanks to a big flat rock jutting out over a private cliff that of course the guys found and used.
After cooking supper for lunch (teriyaki chicken) we leave for Tooth Ridge, carrying extra water in anticipation of this last dry camp. It was tough, as the trail immediately went up, and the air was muggy. The views were good, but there was always the threat of T-storms, so we hiked non-stop. Almost all of us thought this was more brutal than Mt Phillips. Tooth Ridge has huge rocks; I think we all felt we had accomplished something by reaching the camp sign.
The weather was still unsettled so we grabbed a campsite and set up. This is our last dinner meal on the trail, and it was kind of strange since it was a lunch meal consisting of crackers, pepperoni and Peanut Butter? I guess we were all tired and punchy from the hike and we had lots of laughs during the evening. (Inside joke: Lucas’s amazing talent at swatting flies!)
We had our last ‘Thorns & Roses’ and a reflection- it’s cool how close our Crew ‘family’ has become! Everyone toasted Steve as Crew chief, and the Crew thanked the advisors for making this trek possible. We all agreed that if it is clear tomorrow at 4:45am we will climb the Tooth for sunrise, coffee and cider.
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7-20-04 Back to Base Camp
It was clear at 4:45am so we climbed up-not quite to the Top of Tooth of Time, but we loved our peaceful ledge for sunrise. We could still see the city lights of Ute Creek and Base Camp, but soon enough shades of orange in the clouds grabbed our attention. As the sun came up, lakes and ponds revealed themselves in silver. One was shaped like a star fish, and so we renamed it. We toasted the sunrise and made individual toasts to start our last day. After coffee, cider and some Kodak moments a crew from Palmdale came up and to their surprise we opened our “Starbuck’s franchise” to them. Rich, Lucas, Richie and Mark got restless and headed the rest of the way up to the Tooth. Most of the rest of us followed them up and as Rich and Lucas promised, it was worth the rock climb up there for the views.
We could once again see Urraca Mesa-seems funny that just 11 days ago it was a stranger to us, today I saw it again and smiled as if seeing an old friend. We headed down, what a place: a spectacular sunrise, rock climbing and views before 7:30am!!
We had breakfast, watched the now daily ritual of throwing meat sticks at Rich and packed up. Time for one last “Sipping Circle” but this time we had extra sips to toast our Crew Family one last time. The views as we began were great-awesome rock formations! But as we descended the terrain resorted to shrubs without many flowers for the only time on this trek. Mrs. G commented that it was rattlesnake conditions. The hike was long, hot and mostly quiet.
We caught views of Base Camp, ‘Starfish Lake’ and more views of Base Camp. Still we were mostly quiet, no more adventures or surprises to look forward to, so we focused on the civilized pleasures (porcelain bathrooms, clean clothes, scented soap and deodorant) waiting at Base Camp. We descended down, J1 & J2 together and crossed through the gate that said “Welcome Back- You Made It”!